We rode the one line subway almost until the edge of town, and when we got off, we quickly realized our need for a compass. Put it on the list. Eventually, taking an educated guess, we landed at the campus of Dong-A University, the city's largest private college. The campus is wedged between two peaks, the buildings snuggly nestled into the side of Seunghak-san (in Korean, the suffix san means mountain). We found a trail up and started on our way. It was steep. Very steep. Kicked my butt steep, but it felt great. Most of the
hike, we didn't have much of a view, being surrounded with pines, but here and there we got an awesome view. To our right, the campus, to our left, the Nakdong river estuary, both a port and bird sanctuary. As we neared the peak, the trees became slanted, as if we had walked into the set of a
haunting movie. When we reached the peak, where we had an even worse view than a hundred years earlier, some Korean women urged us toward another trail, andwe realized we would have much better views at the actual peak of Seunghak-san, just across the way from where we were. Supposedly, the top is covered with meadows, yielding a spectacular view of the city.